With at least forty treatments for thinning hair patented last year
and 200 million dollars budgeted for clinical trials in the near future,
there is no mystery why there is so much confusion regarding the treatment
of hair loss. However, of all the hundreds of shampoos, ointments, herbal
supplements, gimmicks, etc. there are only two medications that meet
the strict standards set forth by the FDA. Only Rogaine (minoxidil)
and Propecia (finasteride) may state in their advertising and/or labeling
that their product promotes hair growth or prevents the loss of hair.
All the rest of the products many of whose effectiveness are exposed
to minimal, if any, clinical trials should be purchased judicially.
Propecia is the latest medication
to be approved by the FDA. Researchers have recently discovered that
men who suffer from male pattern hair loss have increased levels of
dihydrotestosterone (DHT). DHT is produced from testosterone through
the activity of 5-alpha-reductase enzyme. Propecia inhibits 5-alpha-reductase,
thus blocking the formation of DHT. This appears to interrupt a key
element in the development of male pattern hair loss.
Clinical studies were conducted
in men aged 18 to 41 with mild to moderate degrees of androgenic alopecia.
All individuals treated with Propecia received a tar-based shampoo (Neutrogena
T/Gel shampoo) and were instructed to wash their hair at least once
per day. Clinical improvements were seen as early as three months into
the treatment with Propecia. In men with vertex hair loss, global photographs
revealed hair re-growth in 66 percent of the men. Furthermore, hair
counts with these men indicated that 83 percent of the recipients had
no further hair loss over the two-year clinical period.
Similar to all prescription
medications, Propecia may cause some side effects. In clinical studies,
side effects associated with Propecia were uncommon and did not affect
most men. In fact, more individuals discontinued the placebo as compared
to Propecia secondary to adverse experiences. A very small number of
men, less than two percent, experienced certain sexual side effects
including a decrease in libido and erectile dysfunction. Resolution
occurred in all men who discontinued therapy with Propecia due to these
side effects. The side effects also disappeared in most men, 58 percent,
who continued taking Propecia.
Propecia is for the treatment
of male pattern hair loss in men only. Women who are or may potentially
be pregnant must not use Propecia and should not handle crushed or broken
tablets of Propecia because it may cause potential risk to the development
of the male sex organs. Propecia tablets are coated and will prevent
contact with the active ingredient during normal handling, provided
that the tablet has not been broken or crushed.
Minoxidil was first approved
by the FDA in 1979 has hypertensive medication. However, some individuals
began to develop hair everywhere. So Upjohn went back to the lab and
developed a topical version of the medication. Ten years later minoxidil
was re-introduced has Rogaine. The mechanism of action of Rogaine is
basically unknown. The medication is known to be vasodilator, however,
other medications that dilate the blood vessels do not stimulate hair
growth. Rogaine is believed to work in part by partially enlarging miniaturized
follicles and reversing the miniaturization process. This supposedly
prolongs the growth phase of the hair cycle, allowing the hair to become
thicker and longer.
Clinical trials have shown
with the 2% solution that 26 percent of men ages 18-49 reported moderate
to dense hair re-growth following four months of treatment. An additional
33 percent had minimal hair re-growth. Approximately 20 percent of women
between the ages of 18-45 had moderate re-growth, while an additional
40 percent minimal re-growth. The new extra strength 5% Rogaine solution
has demonstrated slightly improved results as compared to the 2% solution
in men. Currently, the extra strength 5% solution is not recommended
for women.
Side effects associated with
Rogaine are minimal. The most common side effects reported during clinical
trials were itching of the scalp and other skin irritations in the treated
areas. These side effects are not serious and will cease upon discontinuation
of the medication. Well-controlled clinical studies have not been conducted
in pregnant or nursing women, therefore, the medication should not be
used during these conditions.
There are some other topical
treatment options that warrant some discussion at this time. Please
keep in mind before you rush out to purchase any of the following products
that there has been limited clinical testing concerning hair loss on
these treatments.
Retinoic Acid was first FDA
approved for acne under the trade name RETIN-A. Since then it has been
discovered that retinoic acid can be used for several medical conditions,
including hair loss. Retinoic acid is known to increase the absorption
of other medications through the skin, therefore it is hypothesized
that the retinoic when used in conjunction with minoxidil should increase
the amount of minoxidil reaching the hair follicles. There is also some
experimental evidence that indicates that retinoic acid may play a role
in hair growth by presently unknown mechanisms. There have been case
reports where the use of retinoic acid alone induced a significant amount
of hair growth.
However, retinoic acid, does
have some unwanted side effects associated with its use including: itchiness
and flaking of the scalp (further contributing to dandruff), increased
sensitivity to the sun, and similar to the use of minoxidil, a small
percentage of patients may experience an initial increase of hair loss
at the onset of treatment. However, usually this resolves with time.
When first starting the formulation, start using it every other night
for one week, then increase to ever night for one week, and finally
increase to twice a day. This method of use will decrease the unwanted
side effects.
Azelaic acid is a naturally
occurring dicarboxylic acid found in whole grain cereals and animal
products. The medication is FDA approved as a topical preparation to
treat acne vulgaris. It is also used by dermatologist to lighten hyperpigmented
skin. However, there is some scientific evidence that azelaic acid is
a competitive inhibitor of Alpha-5 Reductase. Inhibiting Alpha-5 Reductase
decreases the levels of DHT (dihydrotestosterone) in the scalp. Side
effects associated with azelaic acid include: itchiness, tingling, or
stinging sensation occurring in 1-5% of patients, redness, dryness and
peeling of the skin seen in less than 1% of patients, some patients
have noted a lightening of the skin.
Spironolactone is a "Potassium
Sparing Diuretic" that has been used for decades to treat high
blood pressure and fluid retention. However, there is also some scientific
data suggesting a beneficial effect of spironolactone on hair loss.
Spironolactone has been noted to have anti-androgen activity. Androgenetic
alopecia (male and female patterned baldness) is heavily influenced
by androgens (most specifically- DHT). Spironolactone binds to the receptor
sites on the hair follicles which blocks DHT from having its deleterious
affect on the hair follicle. Side effects associated with spironolactone
are minimal now that spironolactone has been made into a topical solution,
instead of a pill. Rarely, a patient will develop a rash from the spironolactone
solution, which resolves upon dicontinuation of the lotion. The product
also has a malodorous scent which is increased if spironolactone is
combined in the same container with other chemicals (i.e.- minoxidil,
retinoic acid). Sprironolactone solution is be applied to the balding
scalp twice a day. It should be applied and allowed to dry (few minutes)
before placing on the minoxidil solution.
For individuals who have
not benefited from the pharmaceutical approach there are hairpieces.
Interestingly, over a million men in the U.S. sport a hairpiece, spending
some 350 million annually on the purchases and maintenance of these
products. "You would think with all his money he would have a decent
hair piece," is the quite frequently stated remark concerning men
with ill-fitting hairpieces. However, cost has less to do with a good-looking
hairpiece than does the selection of the manufacturer combined with
the grooming and care given it by the wearer. An attractive hairpiece
requires careful color matching, fitting, as well as subsequent styling
and replacement. Unfortunately, many individuals fail to properly care
for their hairpieces as time progresses. Hairpieces can be made from
synthetic materials such as nylon or actual real human hair. Prices
can vary considerably, small filler pieces may cost from $250.00 up,
full wig $1000.00 up. The average hairpiece of good quality, synthetic
or real will usually cost between $1000.00-$3,500.00.
The debate goes on, human
hair verses synthetic hair. Human hair tends to react more to the sun
and other elements such as chlorine. The most significant problem is
the color of the hair fades with time. Human hair also requires more
maintenance including monthly visits to the hair stylist for styling
and cleaning, at a cost of $40-$60; periodic dyeing can cost another
$75-$100. Additionally, hairpieces made from human hair rarely look
appropriate longer one year. Manufacturers of synthetic hair claim their
products look more natural, are water resistant, hold their shape better
and last longer than human hair. However, individuals must still bring
their hairpiece in for maintenance every four to six weeks, at a cost
of $35-$50. Synthetic hair generally looks natural for up to two years.
The decision human verses synthetic is primarily one of preference.
Reputable hairpiece companies will encourage individuals to research
both types of hair prior to purchasing.
For many men hairpieces for
one reason or another is just not an option. Many of these individuals
turn to hair transplants. According to the American Academy of Cosmetic
Surgery, some 244,500 hair transplants were performed in the U.S. last
year. The popularity of hair transplants combined with frustration of
managed care has pushed all types of physicians into the field, which
has historically consisted of dermatologist and plastic surgeons. The
influx of new hair-transplant physicians has subsequently brought transplant
prices down significantly from as high as $30.00 to as low as $4.00
per graft. This reduction in price is not necessarily favorable news
for all patients. Some of the more reputable hair transplant centers
have suggested that a third or more of their clientele result from patients
looking for someone to repair the inadequacies of previous transplants.
During recent years, physicians
have developed and refined new transplant techniques that represent
the way hair grows naturally. Physicians now transplant hair using the
mini/micro-graft procedure. Rather than creating rows or clumps of conspicuous
hair the mini-graft transplant consist of much smaller grafts containing
3-6 hairs, approximately the size of a pinhead. Micro-grafts contain
only 1-2 hairs and are used on the periphery to create a soft and natural
hairline.
Donor sites are usually obtained
from the posterior aspect of an individual's head. Usually a ½
to 1 x 3 to 5 inch donor strip of hair is surgically removed. The scalp
is very elastic so the incision is simply pulled together and closed
with sutures. The small suture line remains concealed by the existing
hair.
The surgery team then delicately divides the donor graft into mini/micro
grafts for transplant. The grafts are then implanted into the appropriate
donor sites. The correct selection, placement and angle of the grafts
remain the critical element in obtaining a positive result. Physicians
must posses a unique artistic flare combined with surgical skill to
create a natural appearance of the hair. Hair transplants have evolved
to the point where they are done on an outpatient basis. Most surgeries
last 3-4 hours and patients may return home a couple of hours following
the procedure. A bandage is usually applied to keep the area clean and
free from infection, patients are usually asked to return the next day
for a follow-up appointment. Many patients return to work within 24
hours although strenuous activity is discouraged.
Fortunately the scalp is
very vascular, so the healing process is relatively short. However,
as with any surgery there is always risk of infection. Individuals may
also experience some swelling of the forehead in the week following
the surgery, some areas may also scab over. Patients should also realize
that transplanted hair shaft often go into a resting phase shedding
the existing hair. Usually within 3-6 months the transplanted hair follicles
will begin to produce noticeable hair. There is a new FDA approved product
developed by ProCyte called GraftCyte that helps prevent transplanted
follicles from going into the resting phase so the transplanted hair
does not shed as often.
The number of procedures
required is dependent on the surface area that needs to be covered and
the expectations of the patient. The human scalp averages one follicular
unit per 1mm and each unit represents approximately 2.2 hairs. So a
section of healthy scalp measuring 1cm by 10 cm would represent some
1000 follicular units or around 2,200 hairs. Normally two or three sessions
are sufficient to get a natural appearance. Natural appearance does
not necessarily dictate natural density. Hair loss remains a dynamic
process and donor sites are limited, therefore, individuals are encouraged
to be realistic about the density of their transplants.
For those individuals who
desire more expedient or dramatic results there are several other surgical
procedures:
- Scalp reductions
involve surgically excising a section of bald scalp from the vertex
of the head. Then the adjacent skin is extensively undermined so the
surgeon can close the incision. Following a recover period, mini/micro
grafts are later transplanted into the appropriate regions. Scalp
reductions can cost between $2,000-$3,500 depending on the extent
of the surgery.

- Transpositional
flaps involve
a series of procedures were a surgeon partially dissects a horseshoe
section of skin containing healthy hair from the donor area. The free
end is positioned over the follicular challenged area where a section
of skin has been excised. The surgeon then closes the donor and recipient
sites with sutures. Transplanted micro-grafts are then inserted to
promote a natural look. Transpositional flaps can cost between $3,000-$9,000
depending upon the extent of the surgery.

- Free flaps
represent an extensive surgery, first all or a portion of the bald
area is excised. A section of micro vascular surgery, the blood vessels
that supply nourishment to the donor flap are connected to the vessels
in the new area. Sutures are then used to close both donor and recipient
areas and transplanted micro-grafts are inserted to promote a natural
look. There are some disadvantages to the flap procedures. Sometimes
the resulting frontal hair does not appear natural and a scar along
the hairline can be detected. Additionally, the hair of the flap may
grow in a direction different from the natural hairs, giving an artificial
look. Free flaps also cost between $3,000-$9,000 depending on the
extent of the surgery.
- Tissue expanders
are procedures involving two surgical sessions spaced approximately
8-12 weeks apart. Expanders are balloon-like devices, which are surgically
inserted under the scalp during the first surgery. The expanders are
then gradually filled with saline solution over a period of weeks.
As the balloons expand, the skin supporting the healthy follicles
is stretched. During the second surgery the expanders are removed,
all or a portion of the bald area is excised and then the adjacent
sections of healthy scalp are sutured together. The major disadvantage
to this procedure is that individuals have to tolerate the strange
appearance of balloons underneath their scalp for several weeks. Though
men can find ways to camouflage this, most find it embarrassing. Average
cost between $4,000-$6,000.

- Extender procedures
involve two surgical sessions approximately four weeks apart. Extenders
are elastic straps with small hooks attached at both ends. Initially,
an extender is stretched and placed under the scalp with the hooks
protruding up into the underside of the scalp. Over a period of weeks
the extender draws together the healthy scalp from the periphery and
extends the skin to the area where the bald spot was. During the second
surgery, the extender is removed, all or part of the bald spot is
excised, and then the adjacent sections of healthy scalp are sutured
together. The disadvantages of this procedure are quite similar to
the flap procedures. Average cost is between $4,000-$6,000.
The above mentioned procedures
may be performed using local or general anesthesia depending upon the
extent of the surgery. Surgical risk is similar to the mini/micro transplant
procedures, there is always a risk of infection. In the US any licensed
physician may perform hair surgery, many individuals end up with unsatisfactory
results i.e. excessive scarring, patches of thin transplanted hair partially
covering areas that continue to lose hair, loss of hair leaves the scars
from previous surgeries visible, etc. Carefully and cautiously select
a surgeon, beware of seductive marketing brochures showing after photos
of men thick, full heads of hair. Ask for referrals, actually talk with
individuals who the surgeon has treated. Check the credentials of the
surgeon, individuals may contact The American Hair Loss Council phone
1-312-321-5128).
What about all the other
products that are so cleverly marketed including mousses, volumizers
, hair sprays, shampoos, conditioners, hot oils, etc? The first thing
to remember is that many unethical companies are going to play on the
emotions of individuals with hair loss. Companies will claim that their
products have "secret constituents" that make an individual's
hair "thicker and fuller" in hopes that sub-consciously the
individual will believe that the product does actually grow hair. One
thing is for certain, there will never be a "secret constituent"
that actually works for hair loss. When the cure is discovered it is
going to be huge. The news will be the first thing Peter Jennings mumbles
on the evening news. An individual is not going to need an expert to
explain to them the name of the medication, it will be common knowledge.
The following is a list of
some common hair loss myths that companies exploit to sell their concoctions:
- Decreased electrical
stimulation
in the scalp as a cause for hair loss. Some companies will try to
sell individuals "sessions" were they massage and electrically
stimulate the scalp. Sorry, no clinical studies have ever shown electrical
stimulation increases hair growth.
- Poor circulation
in the scalp produces hair loss. This is false, clinical studies have
shown repeatedly that the blood supply to an individual's scalp with
hair loss is not compromised.
- Vitamin deficiencies
are a cause of hair loss. Hair loss secondary to vitamin deficiencies
is very rare in the US. In fact, vitamin toxicity (vitamin A) is responsible
for more cases of hair loss than deficiencies in vitamins.
- Blocked follicles
contributing to hair loss. Although individuals with hair loss may
have an increase in the amount of sebum associated with their scalp.
No study has ever indicated that the sebum could block a hair follicle
from actually growing.
- Parasite
such as ringworm is responsible for hair loss. Ringworm is actually
a fungus. Although it does cause hair loss, it usually effects children.
In addition, the hair loss associated with the fungus does not have
the characteristic male pattern.
- Toweling off
your head lightly rather than vigorously. This technique will postpone
the inevitable around two or three days.
There are reputable products
on the market that do not promote hair growth but they can help give
the illusion that an individual has more hair. Regular shampooing is
an important concept for individuals experiencing hair loss. The sebaceous
glands continue to produce the same quantity of sebum even has hair
follicles shrink. Therefore, the thinning hair shaft is subjected to
more oil, which results in flat and/or dull looking hair. DHT is also
found in high concentration sebum and is secreted with the oil onto
the scalp. Regular shampooing prevents the scalp from reabsorbing the
DHT so it cannot be recycled into the follicle, thus, preventing further
damage. As a physician, patients commonly ask for a recommendation when
it comes to shampoo. There are literally hundreds of shampoos currently
on the market with a new product being introduced every day. The problem
is each one of these products has a different marketing ploy that can
be very confusing to consumers. The most inexpensive shampoo at neighborhood
department store is probably the best, however, none of us would actually
use that shampoo! The next choice would be the Neutrogena T/Gel shampoo.
Neutrogena is a name that has become synonymous with quality products
in the hospital. Merk Pharmaceuticals must also have some confidence
in the Neutrogena products because that is the brand of shampoo they
used in their clinical trials while testing the effectiveness of Propecia.
American men spend an estimated 60 million dollars per year on coloring
their hair. Melanocytes, the cells containing the pigment, become dormant
as individuals grow older. Usually Caucasian men begin to show signs
of graying around age thirty-five, black individuals follow around ten
years later. By age fifty, approximately 50 percent of all hairs on
men are white. Many men resolve this condition by coloring their hair.
Unlike women, hair coloring is not generally the primary topic of lunch
for most men, they secretly color their hair. Home coloring techniques
have improved significantly over the last several years. Men now have
the option to accurately color their hair at home. Clairol's product,
Men's Choice, provides five shades of color ranging from light brown
to jet-black. The coloring process is simple, men just lather the lotion
in their hair and then shampoo it out in two-five minutes depending
how subtle or dramatic a change they prefer. The coloring process exhibits
added benefits for those individuals with thinning hair. First, the
dyes will color the thin blonde vellus hairs giving the illusion of
more hair. Next, the coloring agents actually bind to the hair follicles
making the follicles thicker which further contributes to the illusion.
Another product, that appears
almost comical, is actually quite beneficial for those individuals who
are experiencing subtle hair loss primarily on the vertex of their head.
Remember the late night infomercials where the host pulls out this can
of stuff, resembling spray paint, and the next thing you notice is the
whole set has a haze finally surrounding it. Then when the haze finally
settles, the host directs his attention to some poor follicley challenged
individual whose head as been assaulted with a paint like substance.
Today, this type of product has improved immensely, by matching a small
area of the scalp with the hair color the illusion of more hair can
be realized. For example, thinning hair in individuals with red hair
is far less noticeable than in the general public. Dermatologist attribute
this to how the course red hair matches or agrees the ruddy skin in
these individuals.
In conclusion, if an individual
is searching for an absolute truth in determining which one medication,
product or surgery can reverse or prevent an individual's hair loss
he or she will probably be very discourage and disheartened. There is
no singular treatment that has been proven to be effective for every
individual. However, most physicians agree that the best way
to treat hair loss is to take the offensive, that is, begin a combined
treatment with both Rogaine and Propecia prior to extensive thinning.
Clinical tests have shown that both Rogaine and Propecia have significantly
reduce the hair loss process as well as promote new hair growth.
Studies have also shown that thinning hair shaft is subjected to more
oil, which results in flat and/or dull looking hair. DHT is also found
in high concentration sebum and is secreted with the oil onto the scalp.
Regular shampooing prevents the scalp from reabsorbing the DHT so it
cannot be recycled into the follicle, thus, preventing further damage.
Frequent shampooing also prevents hair from appearing flat and dull.
Probably the best shampoo on the market for men with thinning hair is
the product Merk Pharmaceuticals trusted in their clinical trials with
Propecia, Neutrogena T/Gel shampoo.